Bonjour de Paris, where I’ve been taking a brief interlude in between work-related legs of this trip. The flight from Sweden was uneventful and I arrived at my friends’ house before noon yesterday. One of the things that’s great about staying with friends after many trips to Paris is that I get to see lots of things that are off the tourist track. So, yesterday after lunch, I went on quite a hike down the quais of the Seine. We saw the Bibliothèque François Mitterand, wandered through a park in Bercy, people-watched on the quais – not my usual fare.
And that night for dinner I got to try frogs’ legs for the first time. They’re not eaten nearly as much anymore, and we had to do some Googling to find a French restaurant that was serving them. (They tasted mostly like garlic and parsley, for the interested.)
After walking for about 15km, I slept in this morning, then embarked on a more typical hike through Paris. I spent some time behind Notre Dame eating the best ice cream in Paris (Berthillon – the fig was probably the best flavor I’ve ever had there) and just contemplating how many times I’ve sat in that little garden watching people take wedding photos or feed the pigeons.
This afternoon I went to see a sound-and-light production of Gustav Klimt’s work. I had heard it was excellent but wasn’t sure what to expect. It was very similar to a show I saw at the Baux de Provence three years ago – the pictures were projected onto the wall, with music and movement. Lots of sound and color and not much explanation, but it was surprisingly addictive and I really enjoyed just relaxing in the dark room watching the lights spin.
And then there was a walk to Père Lachaise cemetery, and a trek through the Tuilieries to the Opera, and dinner at home, and a walk to the Eiffel Tower and along the river, back to home base before I move on tomorrow. Thousands of steps through what is now very familiar territory, with people I know well. I think often of how I’ve become so familiar with Paris despite never having lived here – just small steps repeated many, many times over, and here we are.
It’s hard for me to sum up how much this city means to me, though I’ve tried in other posts. Hemingway was right: We always returned to [Paris] no matter who we were or how it was changed or with what difficulties, or ease, it could be reached. Paris was always worth it and you received return for whatever you brought to it. Today, sitting in the park behind Notre Dame eating my fig sorbet, listening out of one ear to a brass quartet play “When the Saints Go Marching In” and out of the other to a guy playing “La Vie en Rose” on the guitar, I felt centered and calm and happy and right for the first time in a long time. A day here spent walking, stopping to eat when I need and to sit in a park with a book when my feet hurt to much to go on, is just what I have needed lately.
Here are some pictures.
Les vignes de Paris, growing in the park at Bercy around old industrial ruins.
Crossing the Seine at the Ile St Louis.
Part of the Klimt exhibit.
Pere Lachaise. I know I’ve been here too much because I can find my way around without a map.
Post-dinner walk at the Tour Eiffel, because I’m staying not too far from here.
A bientôt!
I was a free (wo)man in Paris 
June 27, 2018 at 8:19 pm |
[…] I wrote last about my trip, it was to fill you in on the two days I spent in Paris. When that time was done I got on the train and headed out to Versailles to meet up with a group […]